Climbing in Mallorca

It is always difficult advising someone on the best area for climbing in Mallorca as the climbing venues are spread throughout the island. However, one of the great attractions of Mallorca is its compact size and its good road network. This allows all of the crags to be visited from wherever you end up staying. The summer months will see the climbers predominantly heading to the high mountain crags, shady valleys and of course the deep water soloing venues. The winter will see the return of the climbers to the hotter east coast and southwest areas.

Most of the established climbs are in the Tramuntana Mountains in the northwest of Mallorca. The mountains also mean a cooler climate in climb in and give you the added luxury of glorious sea views. There are also several areas on the east coast of Mallorca which offer ideal climbs for beginners.

For those new to the sport that are looking for well-bolted climbs in a stunning location, you must visit Cala Magraner on the east coast, just north of Cales de Mallorca (65 routes from grade 3 upwards). For the seasoned sports climber looking to challenge themselves against some of the finest lines in Europe then you can’t beat Alaro in the foothills of the Tramuntana mountains, just to the west of Binissalem (65+ routes from grade 5 to 8). And of course, Mallorca’s prime climbing area is Sa Gubia, also in the foothills of the Tramuntana to the west of Bunyola (125+ routes from grade 4 – 8). There are also venues like Fraguel (also near Bunyola) and Gorg Blau (high in the mountains on the road from Soller to Escorca) perfect for the rock gods who are content to spend their days working impossibly hard routes (55+ routes each from 5 to 8c+).

Mallorca also has opportunities for the more adventurous multi-pitch climbers. The huge amphitheatre of Sa Gubia offers a wealth of classic fully bolted longer climbs. Sa Gubia is also home to a seven-pitch traditional route which follows the long Albahida ridge line that dominates the area. There is also no shortage of venues still to be explored and developed. The island is dotted with impressive spires of rock just crying out to be climbed. Despite new climbing areas being equipped constantly there is still enough untouched rock here to last a lifetime.

Mallorca has recently become world famous as a deep water soloing venue, with world-class climbers like Chris Sharma visiting during the summer and autumn months. The deep water soloing (known locally as Psicobloc) is excellent in Mallorca. There are numerous sea cliff venues, particularly in the south-east of the island, covered in pockets, juggy tufas, cracks and crimps catering for many styles. There is Cova del Diablo (just to the north of Porto Cristo), home to the world’s best lines; Cala Serena (north Cala d'Or), the largest venue on the island with almost 100 separate lines and Cala Barques (just south of Porto Cristo), an incredibly popular quality deep water soloing playground to name but a few. The routes start from as short as five metres to as high as twenty metres and grades range from 4+ to 8a. In the past climbers have been wild camping at some of the venues, this has caused many problems with the landowners and the police. Please don’t do it.

Written by Sam Shelley
Sam Shelley is a UK MIA qualified climbing instructor with Rock and Ride – Mallorca. They are able to offer advice on everything you need to know for a successful climbing holiday in Mallorca. Get in touch with them for more information on climbing courses, guided multi-pitch adventures, advanced coaching, deep water soloing and much more