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Mallorca's Hidden Valley of Soller

An introduction to Soller

featured in Sights Reviews Author Shirley Roberts, Mallorca & Soller Correspondent Updated

The hidden valley of Soller is where I live. Until 1997, the only access to Soller and its villages and hamlets was by the old wooden train from Palma, or by taking the Coll road with it's fifty hairpin bends - hence the hidden valley. Mass tourism and over building has therefore passed Soller by. In ages gone by, it had thrived on the sea and its trading links with France. Oranges and cotton had been exported from the Port of Soller and the people grew rich on trade. The Mallorquin language spoken here was with a definite French accent.

In time – at the turn of the 20th century - when the orange crop failed, Soller said goodbye to many of its sons as they went to live in France. As they grew rich, they brought their wealth back to Soller and built fine houses and small palaces for their holidays and eventual retirement. The ‘returnees’ houses can be seen all over Soller and one such palace has recently been transformed into Soller’s own museum of modern art, Ca’n Prunera, which has permanent and visiting exhibitions. Ca’n Prunera can be visited daily (except Monday) from 10:30 to 18:30 in its home on Carrer de sa Luna – Soller’s shopping street off the main square. It costs €5 (€3 for retired persons).

The hidden valley contains an eccentric mix of people in its population of 16,000. The couple of hundred English residents are the sort that would be at home in Hampstead in London or Southwold in Suffolk - arty with their business heads firmly screwed on! They live here for many reasons and not because they are on the run! They are united in a love of the town, the mountains and the beaches, and they pinch themselves daily because they can’t believe they have landed in such paradise.

This is my world and I am delighted to be sharing it with you on a weekly basis. I hope that you come and visit Soller and its Port plus the mountain villages of Fornalutx and Biniaraix. These days the drive through the mountains is easy and will cost you the toll fee of €4.50 each way. The drive over the mountain pass continues to be free. The journey from Palma to the heart of Soller – its square - will take just 30 minutes.

This week’s events include the Fiesta of the Repic - this is a monthly family party on the Repic beach in the Port of Soller. Repic beach is the one on the left of the bay and is accessed by skirting around the new tunnel which has been built to link Soller with the back of the Port. Follow the signs to Platja de Repic.

On saturday afternoon 19th June 2010, you will find all the local restaurants offering tasting menus from €3. Music and stalls selling local wares provide the backdrop to the main business of the beach – swimming, sunbathing and sandcastles! A truly relaxed afternoon with a bit of a buzz going on - an afternoon not to be missed.

A perfect day trip on Saturday would be to arrive in Soller town square by around 11 am and be part of the busy Saturday morning market. Coffee and people watching are more important than the shopping but you can easily do both… Take the tram down to the Port at lunch time and get off at Repic to spend the afternoon with us locals at our afternoon Fiesta. I guarantee that once you let the hidden valley into your life you will return again and again.

Location

Map of the surrounding area